Leah Cohen, the acclaimed chef behind Pig & Khao, has brought her signature Southeast Asian flavors to the Upper West Side. After more than a decade of success in the Lower East Side, Cohen’s latest outpost promises a more refined yet playful take on her original concept, incorporating deeper influences from her Filipino heritage and fresh culinary ideas.
Opening Pig & Khao on the Lower East Side in 2012 was a bold move for Cohen, marking her transition from a Top Chef contestant to a restaurateur with a distinct vision. The restaurant quickly gained a following for its vibrant, unapologetic approach to Southeast Asian cuisine, drawing from Cohen’s Filipino roots. Now, with over a decade of experience, she brings that same energy to a new neighborhood, with an even stronger focus on artistry, culture, and personal growth.
“The first time around, we didn’t have a great plan or clear vision,” Cohen reflects. “We were just throwing things together. But now, we’ve taken the time to be very intentional—curating art, selecting materials from Vietnam and Thailand, and making sure that everything in the space reflects a more mature version of the Pig & Khao brand.”
While the core philosophy remains unchanged—delivering bold, authentic flavors—the Upper West Side location introduces a new section to the menu: the “roteria” featuring roti tacos filled with traditional Southeast Asian street food flavors. “We’re taking roti, like a tortilla, and filling it with things you’d find on the streets of Bangkok or Manila,” Cohen explains. Expect offerings like chicken satay roti and mu ping roti, an innovative yet familiar homage to the dishes she loves.
One dish particularly close to Cohen’s heart is her take on Pancit Palabok, a beloved Filipino noodle dish. “It’s one of my favorite Filipino dishes, but you don’t see it much in Manhattan,” she says. “I’ve prepared it slightly differently, but the essence remains the same—the smokiness of bangus (milkfish), the richness of the sauce, the crunch of chicharón. These flavors bring me back to my roots.”
Bringing Pig & Khao to the Upper West Side also presents an opportunity to reconnect with longtime fans. “A lot of our original customers have moved—started families, relocated to Westchester or Upper West Side,” Cohen notes. “This new space lets us tap into that audience again while also reaching people who may not have known we existed before.”
Location, however, has not always been on Cohen’s side. Piggyback, her previous venture in Jersey City, faced significant challenges due to its tucked-away positioning in an office building. “It was beautiful if you were walking on the boardwalk, but from the street, no one knew we were there,” Cohen admits. “It was tough spreading the word.” That experience reinforced the importance of visibility and accessibility in her future endeavors.
Jersey City, however, remains a significant part of Cohen’s journey, as she and her family moved there to be closer to Piggyback. “When we opened the restaurant, we wanted to be nearby and understand the neighborhood,” she says. “Then I got pregnant, and it just made sense to stay.” That said, she’s not keen on reopening in the area anytime soon. “That last experience left a bad taste in our mouths,” she laughs.
Cohen’s unique culinary perspective stems from her upbringing in a multicultural household. With a Filipino mother and a Jewish-Romanian father, she grew up deeply immersed in both traditions. “My dad, an American, was actually more of a cheerleader for Filipino culture than my mom,” she says. “He wanted us to have that connection to the Philippines.” That passion led to frequent childhood visits to the country, which subconsciously shaped her palate and approach to cooking.
Her mother, though not the primary cook in the family, had her specialties—lumpia and munggo (mung bean stew). “She wasn’t a bad cook, but she wasn’t the cook of the family,” Cohen laughs. “She had her four or five go-to dishes, and I was always her sous chef.” A unique twist? “She added hot dogs to the munggo for me and my brother.”
Despite growing recognition, Filipino cuisine still faces misconceptions. “People think Filipino food is unhealthy,” Cohen says. “Sure, we have rich dishes, but every cuisine has its indulgences. The Philippines is an archipelago, and there’s so much seafood and fresh produce. I eat more when I’m there and never gain weight!”
Whenever Cohen returns to the Philippines, she dedicates time to both nostalgic favorites and culinary research. “I start in Manila, catching up with my chef friends, exploring new trends. Then I head to Romblon, where my mom’s family is from,” she says.
